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Sunday, October 7, 2012

Shintaro Japanese Restaurant Review - Four Seasons Bangkok

Shintaro Japanese Restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel, Bangkok - Sashimi, Sushi Roll, Soba 



Overall Score  8.5/10
Taste   4.5/5
Ambiance  4.5/5
Service  4.5/5
Value   4/5

Shintaro Japanese Restaurant on BumRes.com



This review is on the Shintaro at the Four Seasons Bangkok, the top notch five-star hotel with about 30 years of experience.  I reviewed the Shintaro at lunch time earlier this year.  On this visit at dinner time, my friend has the hotel membership card and he received some gift vouchers for discounts, free bottle of wine, and free 1 pound cake.  What a lucky day for me to be with this guy who had all the vouchers.  In the party of four, we feasted like the King at the Shintaro, official Japanese restaurant of the Four Seasons.

Compared to Japanese restaurants in five-star hotels of Bangkok, Shintaro is considered small.  There are about ten tables and the long counter bar seating for about ten people.  One down side about the Shintaro is that it only has one semi private room.  However, the low table with traditional Japanese set up was beautifully designed; absolutely sophisticated.  For business travelers, I suggest to make a reservation ahead of the time for this particular private den.   

I remember that the set lunch at Shintaro was quite impressive.  For comparable Japanese set lunch, Shintaro is definitely one of the best in Bangkok.  One other place that I think it is better than Shintaro is the Nanohana@ J-Avenue.  At dinner time, food selection at Shintaro is similar to any typical Japanese places except the menu is more concise and the price is higher than most for being in the hotel.  However, hotel members can get 50% off which is a wonderful bargain.  On this visit, we have two membership cards.  We must have two separate bills for each card, so we sat at the counter bar instead of the regular table.






The luxurious Japanese dinner at Shintaro for us started off with the Aoyama Sushi Combination (3,250++ baht), which consisted of Otoro, Chutoro, Hamachi, Salmon, Ark Shell, Travelly (in Japanese; I am not sure if it was Kampachi or Shima Aji), and Bota ebi.  We got two of each kind.  The fish was sliced to a perfect size; not too big and not too thick.   It was just enough to get the wonderful flavor.  The beautifully arranged sashimi was so appetizing; I wanted the whole dish for myself, lol…  The full price of this assortment is not cheap at all but with the member’s card, it was all good for us.  I got to try the Otoro, the Salmon, and the Hamachi.  All of which were fresh and tasty.  My friend said that the Chutoro and the Botan ebi were the best though.  





The second dish was the seafood, seaweed, and vegetable with soy dressing salad (470++ baht).  The staff told us that it was a popular one.  Its attractive presentation was the charm.  The vinaigrette dressing was subtle and tasty.  A couple more shrimps and salmon added would make it perfect.  The vegetable mix comprised of quality choices; good salad!







The next two dishes were the maki rolls.  Spicy tuna tempura sushi (500++ baht) was the first one to come.  There could be less of the sauce so its taste will be lighter.  The special dark soy sauce took over the natural flavor of the tuna, though the light tempura batter wrap was nice and cripy.  We finished it all anyways.  The size of the roll wasn’t too big.  The other roll was the Foi gras tropical sushi (810++ baht), which was quite a delicious one.  Contexts complimented each other nicely.  The buttery foie gras and the sweet mango were a pair.  The rice covered with the black sesame added a light crunchy texture to the roll.  We all agreed that this roll was well done.  We highly recommend it on your visit at the Shintaro.







Next up were series of random picks of Sushi.  Sear Salmon Sushi (380++ / 2pcs) looked amazing and it was even better than its look.  My friend said that it was one of the best sear salmon sushi he has had recently.  Imagine this sushi with the Ikura (Salmon roe), it would be perfect.  We had Tamago (110++ / 2 pcs), which was just ordinary good.  Shime Saba (170++ / 2 pcs) had just the right balance of saltiness and sour.  The Hotate (320++ / 2 pcs) was the best I ever had.  It was so fresh and so sweet. Man! I’m still dreaming of the Hotate at Shintaro @ Four Seasons.  The last choice was the Akami (360++ / 2pcs), which was nothing exciting.  It wasn’t even as close to the goodness gracious Akami at Mugendai @ The Glass Thonglor.  Best picks of the night were Hotate, Chutoro, Shime Saba, and Salmon.  If you order our recommended sushi, we promise you will be in love with the Chefs at Shintaro. 









The next three dishes were the main dish.  Kurubota with Uni stuffing (890++ baht) was a strange choice that we have never seen anywhere.  We were worried about how the Uni would turn out after the deep fry process.  It was a mistake.  The Uni was worthless being in the pork.  We could get the jelly texture like the fresh Uni.  To be honest, the Kurubota Tonkatsu wasn’t done well neither.  It was a Chef’s special that wasn’t as special as expected.  The other main dish was the Pan grilled salmon teriyaki on sesame sauce, salmon roe on steamed rice served with miso soup (590 baht).  The salmon was just a bit overcooked and the plain sauce didn’t interest me much.  Fortunately we had the highlight served around the same time.  It was the Pan-fried Atlantic cod fish with spicy cream sauce (720++ baht).  Its spicy cream sauce was to-die-for.  The bite of spiciness followed the creamy sweet flavor which was just spectacular with the soft texture Atlantic cod.  I just loved the sauce so much that I poured it over the grilled Salmon rice bowl.  It actually made the Salmon dsih better.   







The next two dishes were noodles; Soba and Udon.   Ten zaru soba (370 baht) was the soba served with shrimp tempura.  It was a really good Soba.  My friends were so crazy about this one.  We recommend this menu to you as well.  And the other one, the Cold Udon was not as impressive.  It must be because of the new Udon joint in the Sukhumvit 23, the Yokoi Udon, specializes in only Udon and they are great at it. 









You probably think that we will skip the dessert.  No, we have three choices of the dessert from the menu and one pound of the Blueberry Cheesecake (gift voucher).  The first sweet ending was the Jasmine Custard (240 baht).  It must be the best of the three.  Its appearance was like a French dessert.  The custard was very light, so it was great to enjoy with oatmeal crisps and biscuit given aside.  Mochi and marshmellow (240 baht) and Matcha lava cake (240 baht) were a Japanese fusion dessert.  I liked the lava cake that came with the ice-cream more.  The mochi dessert was weird.  We redeemed a gift voucher for the 1pound of Blueberry Cheesecake.  It was incredible.  I am not surprised because the Bakery at Four Seasons is known to be the hot spot.  Customers has to get numbered queue card sometimes.

All in all, the classy Japanese dinner at Shintaro of the Four Seasons Bangkok was definitely impressive.  Every dish was carefully prepared and the taste very much showed good quality ingredients.  Beautiful presentation and adequate portion of each dish couldn’t make us any less happy.  However, many premium Japanese restaurants in Bangkok today have raised the standard of Japanese dining with super premium quality ingredients.  Honestly Shintaro may not reach that level of excellence but Shintaro is surely one of the great Japanese restaurants of Bangkok; especially when you have the 50% member’s discount.  We couldn’t ask for more.  






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Friday, October 5, 2012

Bolan Thai Restaurant - Sukhumvit 26, Bangkok

Bo.lan - Premium Thai Restaurant at Sukhumvit 26, Bangkok



Overall Score  7/10
Taste   3.5/5
Ambiance  4.5/5
Service  4/5
Value   2/5

Bo.lan - Essentially Thai Restaurant on BumRes.com




Prior to going to dine at the Bolan at Soi Sukhumvit 26, I didn’t know anything about the restaurant at all.  I only heard the name from my friend.  I saw an article in the magazine, Eating Out which had an interview on the farang owner.  I finally made the decision to try it out.  I had a feeling that it was going to be pricey when I first called for make a reservation.  I asked for a table for two at 6pm but the staff told me that the table would be available at 8.30pm.  It was surprising to me that this restaurant would be fully booked on a weekday.  I arrived at the Bolan and they also had the Valet Parking service (must be added to the food prices).  When I saw that the restaurant was full of foreigners, I thought to myself, “oh crap, am I in the tourist trap?”  



The Bolan or Bo.lan is owned and operated by a married couple.  The wife’s name is Bo and the husband’s name is Dylan, so it came together as Bo.lan.  I have no idea why this restaurant is so popular among expatriates.  There were no Thai customers at all on my visit.  The menu of this restaurant changes seasonally.  On my visit, it was the menu of July and September of 2012.  Bolan’s concentration is on the quality ingredient.  They advertised all the ingredients with full details, such as what city the meat is from, what type of rice it is and where it is from.  It was something that I would expect to see in premium Japanese restaurants.  I heard that the owners go out to buy the ingredients every single day in order to get the best quality available.  I was told that the chef here pays attention to a lot of little details.  I can see that their target market is the foreigners with money.  So, all of these characters can be simply summarized to one word, pricey.    








Bolan serves both styles; a la carte and set menu.  Detail of the menu is available in the tab menu as usual.  However, be advised that this restaurant changes the menu seasonally.  So, when you go there, the menu may not be the same as my visit.  I believe that they will probably have a few typical choices that are always available.  I am also sure that their price will not get any lower.  The most expensive set is called Bo.lan Balance, costs 1,680++ baht (around 2,000 baht).  To make the choice of a la carte or set menu, everyone in the same table has to agree to go one way or the other.  If I wanted to get the set but my friends didn’t want to, we couldn’t be on the same table.  I don’t like how they mandate like this.  I have experienced this before at the Gaggan @ Langsuan but I didn’t mind because their food was fantastic.  There is a Mini Bo.lan Balance as well, for the price of 1,380++ per person.  For a la carte choices, I saw the price in the menu and I just wanted to walk out.  The price was around 500++.  My friend and I finally decided to order the Bo.lan Balance.  We wanted to find out what they really have to offer.   



In the set, there were two appetizers; Ya dong grachai dum served with sour fruits and Bo.lan amuse bouche.  In terms of flavoring, both of these didn’t impress me at all.  I was more intrigued by its presentation.  It was beautifully arranged just like a fine French dish.  The server explained to us about the ingredients and how everything came together.  For the beauty, I suppose it was worth the price.  However, the beauty wasn’t edible.  The taste was nothing attractive to me at all.
















For main course in the set, we had a few choices.  The first one was the Salad of herbal-fed Thai chicken from “Karnjanaburi” with assorted Thai herbs and crispy organic egg.  The second was the Salted Spanish mackerel simmered in coconut cream with prawn accompanied with stuffed local flower and battered greens.  The third one was the Cassia leaf & flowery curry with slow cooked “KU” beef accompanied with pickled mustard green chili relish and pickled garlic.  In additional, I got to choose one bowl of soup.  I chose the soup of red turmeric and herbal-fed Thai chicken.   


At first glance, the main course still looked like Thai food.  I thought it was going to be the strange Thai like the Srabua @ Siam Kempinski.  Some menu actually appeared to be very traditional Thai but I wasn’t so impressed with the taste at all.  Fortunately we had one dish that was overtly delicious, the salted Spanish mackerel in coconut cream.  In Thai, we call this menu Lon.  It must be one of the best Lon I have ever had.  The Lon I had at Nahm was also good but this one was better.  With the thorough detail of every ingredient in the menu, it raised the value of the dish higher.  I must admit that I have had the simple Tom Yum Gai elsewhere that was much more enjoyable than this fancy Thai soup with herbal-fed chicken from Karnchanaburi at Bo.lan.  The origin or the name obviously didn’t make the food any more delicious at all.  












For dessert, we had three choices.  The first one was the Wan Wan Yen Yen (Bo.lan pre-dessert).  The second was the Bo.lan dessert dujour.  The last one was the Petit fours to accompany a cup of Bo.lan blend.  After the disappointment with some of the main dishes, the desserts actually rescued the scene with its beautiful decoration and its delightful taste.  It was wonderful even though the portion was so tiny.  My friend was a big dessert fan, so she had most of it.  I was already full from the main dishes, so I only get a quick taste of everything.



To conclude, the Bo.lan – Essentially Thai was a good Thai restaurant that had a top notch service, the beautiful food, and the magnificent atmosphere.  All of which was somewhat worth the high price paid.  I was wondering if Bo.lan actually intended to present this kind of light flavor to please the foreign palates.  All I can say that this flavor will not please the local diners, especially the flavors of main course.  Nonetheless, Bo.lan did a great job on the dessert.  Now that I think of it, I should have asked the kitchen to kick it up a notch to please the Thai customers.  Well, it was my only chance at Bo.lan because I probably won’t go back there again.  For 4,000 baht to get the romantic atmosphere and beautiful, I rather spend my money to feast on other nice Thai restaurants less expensive or enjoy premium sushi at Japanese restaurants instead.  


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